After several years on the road, the Cadillac is garaged once again where, between times, Russell Jackson's Russell's reigned, only now it's wearing a green and white and salmon and black Lincoln Log façade. This goofy, low-sticker-price neighborhood restaurant (as if it were in anyone's neighborhood--it is on La Cienega, after all) dishes up some good grub, but with an awfully sweet tooth. The pink rémoulade decorating the Cajun popcorn (shrimp, salmon and ahi) tastes like creamed cherry Crayola, and I wouldn't allow honey-raspberry aioli anywhere near my table. Go for the deviled eggs (as '50s as the ceiling's peachy triangular plastic light baffles and recessed lights the color of glittery green Jell-O), for the salad Niçoise, the roasted chicken or turkey chili. And the Cadillac won't take you for a ride; generous salads $6.95 to $9.95, over-the-top entrées ("turkey sundae" is not a dessert) under $10 at lunch, $12 at dinner.
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