You can get dim sum and then some at this large Hong Kong-style restaurant in a new Chinese mall right off the 60 freeway. Two pounds of freshly boiled shrimp (about 40)--that only minutes before were swimming in the holding tanks--come with a chile-soy dipping sauce for just $11.99. Then there's roast duck stuffed with puréed taro and presented in a crunchy, golden-brown taro-root crust--really delicious, but very rich (half duck, $10) and a short-ribs-and-eggplant hot pot ($7.95) whose not-very-tender beef serves mainly to help give the eggplant a truly wonderful flavor. Now for the excellent dim sum (not served weekend evenings): shrimp and shark fin steamed in won ton skins, sticky rice and star-anise-scented pork wrapped in banana leaves, and translucent wheat-gluten skins shielding a julienne of vegetables accompanied by a spunky red-chile paste. And best of all--worth the trip, in fact--impeccably delicate pink shrimp and bits of perfectly ripe mango sharing the inside of a crisp-fried won ton-skin roll.
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